NEWS

"Northwest Passage - New AVAs sprout across Oregon & Washington"

by RICHARD KINSSIES

Of Washington's nine AVAs, there are two that seem poised to have a Walla Walla-like future: Red Mountain and Columbia Gorge.

No area could make a better case for its own AVA than Red Mountain, a miniscule patch of land (about 4,000 total acres) carved out of the Yakima Valley AVA back in 2001. The land is dryer and hotter than the surrounding area. It has less cloud cover and more wind, and the quality of the fruit is indisputable. Merlot, cabernet sauvignon and syrah, for example, from Klipsun Vineyard or Ceil du Cheval, can fetch thousands of dollars per ton more than those grapes from other Washington vineyards, and there's a waiting list for buyers. It's no surprise that Red Mountain is the most expensive vineyard real estate in Washington. Another unique edge for Red Mountain is that the entire AVA can be viewed from one vantage point.

A recent release of land - with water - from the state's Department of Natural Resources has spurred growth. About 700 acres of vines will be planted in the next few years, bringing the total to about 1,500 of the approximately 2,500 plantable acres on Red Mountain. Within a few years, Red Mountain will be green with new vineyards and dotted with about two dozen wineries.

To plan for the growth of their AVA, members are in the process of making the area into what they call a viticultural park. "The plan really isn't consumer driven, it's grower driven," says Tom Hedges of Hedges Cellars on Red Mountain. "But even though that's not our goal, the results will be great for the consumer," he adds. According to Hedges, the park will eventually include tree-lined roads, lookout points, signs, even a village with a restaurant, an inn, a general store and a wine shop. Construction is still a few years out, but the plans are nearing completion.

Of all the AVAs in Washington (and Oregon), the Columbia Gorge has the most promise as a breakout star. For years, it has been Washington's best-kept secret, but it is now reaching critical mass regarding vineyards, wineries and recognition. Viticulturally, it is the source of some of the state's best fruit, yet it is also one of the most dramatically beautiful places in the entire northwest, making for an unbeatable combination. Proximity is another advantage for the Gorge. It's about three and a half hours from Seattle and about an hour from Portland.

Since the AVA was approved in 2004, the Columbia Gorge has grown considerably, especially on the Oregon side. There were perhaps two Oregon wineries then and now there are about a dozen. The Washington side has grown, too, in the number of wineries and the number of acres planted to vines. There are now about two dozen wineries spread evenly on both sides of the water.

Great masses of both air and water move through the corridor that makes up the Columbia Gorge. Here, the walls of the gorge sink down on the westward-flowing Columbia River like a nozzle on a garden hose, creating both rapids and deep water. It is the water that helps mitigate the temperature extremes that dominate the rest of inland Washington. This is also the only portal to the Pacific Ocean in both the Coastal and Cascade ranges, allowing for huge amounts of cool marine air to rush eastward through the gorge. (These conditions also make the Columbia Gorge one of the world's premier windsurfing venues.)

It is this collision of both marine and continental climates that give the AVA its unique growing conditions. It is warmer than the Puget Sound and cooler than the Columbia Valley. It can ripen hot-climate grapes, such as zinfandel, yet it's not too warm for cool-climate grapes such chardonnay and even pinot noir. And the scenery is breathtaking. "Every vineyard comes with a view," boasts Joel Goodwillie, co-owner and winemaker at Wind River Cellars, and co-author of the AVA petition. Goodwillie has been making wine in the gorge for more than ten years and has found one of his greatest successes with tempranillo. "I'm banking on that variety," he says.

Because the Columbia Gorge straddles two states, the possibilities for discord could have been high in negotiating the details for the AVA petition. But from all accounts, the whole thing went off without a hitch. "The AVA is based on climatological and elevation issues, not political boundaries," explains James Mantone, co-owner with his wife, Poppie, and winemaker at Syncline Wine Cellars. "It was more important for everyone to be unified than to fight over boundaries," he says.

For many, one of the great benefits of the new AVA is that Celilo Vineyard now has an address other than Washington State. This 70-acre site, founded in 1973, is the jewel of the gorge, if not the entire state. From here comes some of the best chardonnay fruit perhaps in the entire country, yet it has previously resided outside the boundaries of all of Washington's AVAs. Many believe that it is the success of the Celilo Vineyard that helped make the case for the AVA in the first place.


Wind River Cellars, 2004 Tempranillo, Columbia Gorge - $28: One of many new Washington and Oregon wines made from this Spanish workhorse red, this Tempranillo has bright, tart, mouthwatering cherry and other red fruit characteristics, plenty of soft tannins and a wisp of vanilla that haunts the wine from the nose to the finish. Score: 89 - Richard Kinssies

Current

Washington State Wine Industry Gears Up For Fall Harvest

Optimal Weather, Balanced Crops Indicate Stellar 2006 Vintage

SEATTLE – September 11, 2006 – As the summer days grow shorter and the weather begins to cool, Washington state’s wine grape harvest kicks into high-gear. Vineyard workers throughout the state have begun picking select white grape varietals, with harvest activity ramping up in the coming weeks.  The Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers (WAWGG) estimates the state’s 2006 wine grape crop will weigh in at more than 123,564 tons.  Washington state is the second-largest producer of wine in the nation, with more than 400 wineries, 350 wine grape growers and 30,000 vineyard acres. 

“Overall, our growers are very optimistic about the crop year and the quality of this year's vintage,” said Vicky Scharlau, executive director of the Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers. “Our growers judiciously managed water through the wet spring which created smaller berries on the reds but this was followed by good temperatures for growth.  We really have had the perfect climate for wine this year!”

Vineyard managers across the state report that favorable weather has been an essential component to the development of this year’s high quality, well-balanced crops.  A mild, wet spring gave way to a consistently dry, hot summer, producing balanced canopies and smaller berries.

“A warm summer like we’ve had means we’ll have a fantastic crop this fall,” said Jeff Gordon, chairman of the Washington Wine Commission and owner of Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards in Pasco, Wash. “We’re excited about the potential of this year’s vintage for both red and white wine grapes.  The crop looks extremely clean and consistent.”

Precisely when to harvest is an individual decision made by each vineyard manager and wine producer, and depends on the grape varietal, maturity of the fruit, vineyard location and weather, Scharlau said. Harvest and crush are in full-swing throughout the months of September and October and typically wrap up in November.  Once harvest is complete, The Washington Wine Commission and Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers will jointly issue a crush report, recapping the yield and predictions for the 2006 vintage year.